When lightening your hair, you may notice unwanted warm tones—commonly referred to as brassiness—emerging in your strands. These red, orange, or yellow hues can appear when lifting darker hair or even after a fresh color application. Understanding why brassiness happens and how to manage it can help you achieve your desired color while keeping your hair looking vibrant and natural.
Why Does Hair Turn Brassy?
Brassiness occurs because of the underlying pigments naturally present in hair. When you lighten your hair—whether using hair color or bleach—you remove darker pigments, revealing the warm tones beneath the surface.
1. Hair Has Underlying Warm Pigments
Each hair color level has a natural underlying pigment:
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Dark hair (levels 1-5): Red and orange undertones
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Medium hair (levels 6-7): Orange and yellow undertones
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Lighter hair (levels 8-10): Yellow undertones
Since blue-based pigments fade the fastest during the lightening process, warm pigments (red, orange, and yellow) become more prominent, resulting in brassy tones.
2. Lifting Dark Hair Exposes Warm Tones
If you have dark brown or black hair and try to lighten it significantly, the warm pigments naturally present in your strands will be exposed. This is why lifting beyond two levels can lead to an orange or yellowish result, especially without proper neutralization.
3. "Color Cannot Lift Color"
A common saying in hair coloring is that "color cannot lift color." This means that previously colored hair cannot be lightened effectively with another box dye—it requires a pre-lightening step to remove artificial pigments before applying a new color. If you attempt to lighten previously colored hair without pre-lightening, you may end up with uneven or brassy results.
How to Prevent and Fix Brassiness
To achieve a cooler, more natural-looking color, follow these tips:
1. Lighten Gradually
Naturtint recommends lifting no more than two levels at a time to minimize exposure to unwanted warm tones. Going beyond this may result in excessive brassiness that is harder to correct.
2. Use Ash (A) Tones
If you are prone to brassiness, choose an Ash (A) shade from the Naturtint Permanent Hair Color Chart, as these formulas are designed to counteract warm tones:
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For red/orange tones, use an Ash Blonde or Ash Brown shade such as 6A (Dark Ash Blonde) or 5A (Light Ash Brown).
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Consider an Ash Blonde shade such as 8A (Ash Blonde) or 10A (Light Ash Blonde) for light orange or yellow tones.
Mixing an Ash tone with a Natural (N) tone can also help maintain gray coverage while neutralizing warmth.
3. Consider Going One Shade Darker
If you experience brassiness after lightening, choosing a slightly darker shade (e.g., 5N instead of 6N) can help deposit more pigment, reducing warm tones and creating a more balanced result.
5. Use Color-Safe, Neutralizing Hair Care
To maintain a cool, fresh color, use:
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Purple or blue-tinted shampoos to counteract yellow or orange hues.
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Color-protecting, sulfate-free shampoos to prevent premature fading.
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Deep conditioning treatments like the Naturtint Quinoa Multi Care Mask to keep hair healthy and vibrant.
Final Thoughts
Brassiness is a common challenge when lightening hair, but with the right techniques and shade selection, you can achieve a natural, neutral, or cool-toned result. By understanding underlying pigments, using Ash tones, and following proper hair care, you can keep your hair color looking fresh and balanced. If you’re unsure which shade is best for you, check the Naturtint Color Chart or reach out for a personalized color recommendation!
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